Brief summary of venue

WE NO LONGER HAVE ACCESS TO MAGAGENI. Magageni is an amazing wild African climbing venue on the escarpment upstream from Loskop Dam. Routes range from 50 to 120 metres and the rock quality is mostly excellent.

Permit/ permission info

Magageni is private property; permission must be obtained from the owner and rules strictly adhered to. At present (start 2012) access has been jeopardized, though we hope to re-establish access again.

Approximate travelling time from Johannesburg

Two hours.

Parking information

On designating camping site.

Info on walk in

The walk from the campsite to the start of the routes takes 20-30 minutes, and follows a dirt track to the base of the cliffs.Do not drive down this road as you will not be able to get back up again!


Car camping – the campsite is under the trees on top of the cliffs and has no facilities.

Availability of water for drinking

Water is unreliable at the camp site and should be brought in. There is good water at the bottom of the cliff though.

Climbing route guide

Scanned version available from Ulrike Kiefer, otherwise online on

Climbing information

Currently the area has over 30 recorded routes from grade 13 to 20; there’s good potential for new routes. The crags consist of an East and West Wing, split by a waterfall with a deep pool at the base. The West Wing is the main event with routes between 100 and 150 metres high. It is very hot in the morning and some of the faces still catch sun in the afternoon. You can find shady routes here though if you start climbing late enough. The East Wing is shorter (up to about 60 metres high) and not as extensive. There are, however, some excellent routes. The descent gulley/track descends to the east of the East Wing.

Child friendly

The owner does not want small children to visit at present.


Yes, there’s a big pool at the bottom of the crag.

Camp fires

Allowed, bring own wood.

Other attractions

Pristine flora and some game has been introduced, there’s also a big pool and waterfall; hiking is possible on the property as well as following the stream towards Loskop Dam.


The property is fenced in and absolutely safe.


Access to be arranged via the MCSA Jhb Section, Tel: 011 067 0326 (15h00-18h00 weekdays), Fax: 011 067 0326, Email: For copies of the RD, contact Ulrike Kiefer, Email:


Mountaineering (climbing and hiking) is de facto an activity which carries certain inherent risks. Neither the MCSA, nor any of its members or representatives accept responsibility for any deaths, injury or illness sustained or suffered by any person or for any theft, loss or damage to any property that result from participation in MCSA activities, no matter in what manner caused and whether allegedly due to negligence or not.