PROPERTIES — GAUTENG
Wilgepoort
"If you think you’ve peaked, find a new mountain."
Venue Information
|
Venue Overview | Wilgepoort is a trad climbing area discovered in 1966 and subsequently developed. The crag is in the picturesque Gouwsberg Valley on the banks of the Wilge River. Whilst appearing to be a small crag, it has a significant number of high quality lines of up to 4 solid pitches. The crag is North facing and gets very hot in summer, making it an excellent winter crag. The property is owned by MCSA; purchased in 2013. Wilgepoort is also an excellent hiking venue with steep uphill walking and fun scrambling. Deep Water Soloing is also available at the big pool close to the climbing crags. |
|
Permit / Permission info |
Adults: R80 per day. Other (students, pensioners): R40 per day. Kids <14: R20 per day. Payable to MCSA Magaliesberg Section (Contact admin@mag.mcsa.org.za). |
|
Approx travel time from Jhb |
Approximately 2¼ hours drive from Johannesburg. |
|
Parking info |
Plenty of safe parking available. |
|
Walk-in |
Access from the car park to the crag is about a 25-30 minute walk. The cliffside is a steep tricky grassy slope and exposed, so it is protected by a wire that can be clipped onto. When the river is low, the tricky bit is by-passed by crossing and re-crossing the river. |
|
Accommodation |
Car camping in the bush. At night, in winter, it can get quite cold, so a warm sleeping bag is necessary. Longdrop at camp-site. |
|
Availability of drinking water |
Bring your own water, as river water is not safe for drinking. |
|
Climbing route guide | Route guide is available from the MCSA Jhb office. Alternatively see online guide: www.saclimb.co.za |
|
Climbing info |
The rock comprises weathered Waterberg sedimentary rock of excellent quality. Approx 40 trad routes ranging between grades 14 to 24 and consisting of 3-5 pitches in length. Most routes follow cracks, open books, grooves and chimneys, a standard trad rack, supplemented by additional camming devices is usually sufficient. Some routes feature bolts and pegs, however no route is entirely protected in this way so be prepared to place gear. The crag is North facing, so in full sun, making it an ideal winter climbing venue. There is some loose rock at the top of some routes, so wear a helmet. Descents involve abseiling if climbing on the right or walking off if climbing on the left. NB: Climbing is not allowed on the separate Western crag (The Pillar of Eros, situated 800m upstream of the Main crag) during the Black Eagle nesting season (April to Mid-November). At present there are no sports routes. Any bolted routes must be in addition to, and in a separate area from existing trad routes |
|
Child-friendly |
Yes. |
|
Swimming |
Although the river water is unsuitable for drinking, a dip in the river or the big pool close to the campsite is most refreshing. |
|
Camp fires |
Yes, at the camp-site; there is wood available, though it is becoming advisable to bring your own. |
|
Other attractions | The crags are located in an area of wild, African scenic beauty; it is not uncommon to see a pair of Black Eagles, the resident Gymnogene, Giant Kingfishers and otters fishing in the Big Pool. Good hiking up the Wilge River and behind the crag or just relax beside the river with a book. |
|
Dangers | Wilgepoort is known for rock falls; wear a helmet, take care and climb with a cell phone. Hippo has been seen in the pool near the camp-site, but apparently lives further downstream. |
|
Contact details |
For bookings, permits and the access gate lock combination, contact MCSA Magaliesberg Section: admin@mag.mcsa.org.za |
Disclaimer
Mountaineering (climbing and hiking) is de facto an activity which carries certain inherent risks. Neither the MCSA, nor any of its members or representatives accept responsibility for any deaths, injury or illness sustained or suffered by any person or for any theft, loss or damage to any property that result from participation in MCSA activities, no matter in what manner caused and whether allegedly due to negligence or not.